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CHQ

                 The arid and barren rocky islet at the

                 mouth of the natural harbour of Elounda

                 narrates stories of human greatness.
                 Το άνυδρο και άγονο, βραχώδες

                 νησάκι στο στόμιο του λιμένα της

                 Έλούντας έχει να διηγηθεί ιστορίες
                                                     ανθρώπινου
        Spinalonga. A barren, arid islet lying at the mouth of the
        natural port of Elounda in the Lasithi prefecture of Crete.   μεγαλείου.
        Since antiquity, its advantageous and strategic location
        was important for the protection of the city of Olounda,
        ancient Elounda, which was an important harbour. Olounda
        prospered until the 8th century, but was deserted due to fear
        of attacks from Saracan pirates.
        Many years later, when in the late 16th century the Venetians
        fortified the large towns of Crete to prevent Ottoman   1881, Spinalonga had become the largest commercial centre in
        expansionism, the island once connected to the mainland   the area. It is estimated that during that time there were more
        became one of the most important marine fortresses in the   than 200 homes and several workshops on the island. Today
        Mediterranean. The first phase of construction in Spinalonga   many structures remain; their morphology and symmetrical
        took place from 1579 to 1586, on the ruins of an ancient castle   proportions are indicative of the principles of local and Balkan
        most probably dating from Hellenistic times. According to   architectural tradition. The settlement’s prosperity came to an
        some sources, the Venetians had already constructed a canal,   abrupt halt due to political developments and in 1897, French
        making the islet impenetrable. Its name originated, according to   military forces settled on the island for one year. The majority
        the most sources, to a distortion of the phrase “Is tin Elounda”,   of inhabitants had emigrated by 1903, so during the time of
        which became “Spinalonde” in the 13th century and later   the Cretan State, while Crete was granted autonomy under the
        “Spinalonga” (long thorn). There are two zones of fortification,   control of the Great Powers and was under Turkish jurisdiction,
        while two rare and important monuments survive in the   the island was converted into a leper colony. Patients were
        northern and southern sections, built for strategic purposes: the   sent from all over Crete, and later from other parts of Greece,
        Michiel demilune and the Moceniga or Barbariga demilune.    resulting in more than 400 people living there at its peak.
        During the Cretan War (1645-1669), the last major conflict   Hansen’s disease, leprosy, mostly infects the skin and nerves
        between the Ottomans and the Venetians, various people   under the skin, resulting in crippling pains. It is caused by
        sought shelter on the island, including the rebels (chainides)   a bacterium linked with tuberculosis, although it is not as
        who started their guerilla warfare. Even though Chandax   contagious. The disease is known and documented since
        was surrendered to the Ottomans, Spinalonga remained in   antiquity, and carries with it a social stigma even today.
        Venetian possession until 1715, at which time the garrison   There were many lepers in Crete in the early 20th century.
        left. The island’s inhabitants were taken captive and sold off   The lack of medical care, the fear of contamination and
        as slaves. The island soon became a place of exile, but later   social exclusion created the need to confine patients far
        due to its fortifications it became an exclusively Ottoman   from populated areas. Spinalonga, being a fortress, was
        settlement. In the middle of the 19th century the island   ideal because it also guaranteed their confinement, as it
        attracted a large population, mainly sailors and merchants   was isolated and surrounded by the sea. People infected
        who sailed the trade routes of the Eastern Mediterranean. By   with the disease lost their citizenship and political rights,
                                                     while all their possessions were confiscated. Later, patients
                                                     received an allowance from the state that was barely enough
                                                     to cover living costs and their medicine. People lived in the
                                                     abandoned houses of the former Turkish settlers, and went
                                                     there to die. There was no fresh water or electricity supply. All
                                                     this until 1936, when the arrival of one patient would change
                                                     everything and give Hansen sufferers a voice.
                                                     In 1936, 21-year old law student Epaminondas Remboutakis

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